A classic fish restaurant in Oporto

This article was also published in the Financial Times.   It was a very cosmopolitan gathering around the dinner table in Oporto, northern Portugal. There were three Germans, a Pole, two Spaniards, five Portuguese and two English food and wine lovers, all kept in check by a patrolling dog, bigger and thicker of hair than the sheep it has been bred to look after. On the table over the ensuing three hours were various items that make Portuguese cuisine so attractive. Bottles from Dão, Barraida and the Douro that invariably…






Oporto and nearby

Opporto and nearby – 2001 Despite the obvious modernisation and Europeanisation of the past 30 years, the region between Oporto and Lisbon remains thoroughly distinctive. Our hotel welcomed us with a decanter of tawny port; the fish markets are full of octopus and small squid, sadly no longer caught around the UK; and the fish stalls in the supermarkets, far superior to their British equivalents, are piled high with fresh fish, razor clams and the Portuguese firm favourite, salt cod, most of which now is now caught in Norwegian and…